South Dakota Is All That And A Bag Of Chips

This will be the last blog post about our US travels for a while as our Italy excursion is next! Until then, we are amped to tell you about what a shock South Dakota was for us. How many people in the US even know Mount Rushmore is in this state? To be honest, before we got there we thought the stone heads would be the highlight. We had Badlands on the agenda as well, but didn’t know what to expect. With a name like Badlands it didn’t sound all that great. However, we ended up doing so many things that were beyond fantastic they made us forget the scorching hot weather.

We stayed in Rapid City, the perfect base for checking out the best of SD from one location.

If we had known there were so many amazing things to do in this state we would have come a lot sooner. It is hard to pick just one as the best thing we did. By the way, when you are RVing full time you have great stops, mediocre stops, and sometimes crappy stops depending on things like weather, things to do that are open, food/groceries in the area, etc. But this was one of those stops where everything just clicked and worked out perfectly…yay us!

Visiting Mount Rushmore National Memorial kicked off our South Dakota adventure. Most people we talked to beforehand told us it was way smaller than they expected. But, we thought it was pretty damn big.

If you think about all of the intricate detail carved into the side of a mountain, it is super impressive. Also, don’t just take a head on look and turn around. The best part is walking along the presidential trail and figuring out that you see something different from each view point. Like in this peek-a-boo shot you only see one president.

Next, we headed to Badlands National Park. We expected a desolate, treacherous, Mars-like landscape. But, actually it is quite beautiful. This view of the yellow mounds stands out as an example there is a colorful side to Badlands. Although looking at it now, with Halloween around the corner, it does look a little like moldy candy corn.

We were itching to do a hike in the park since it had been a while. We chose Notch Trail to really get our blood pumping.

Warning, hiking here in summer you are going to sweat like a pig!  We recommend avoiding the hottest part of the day which is basically any time after sunrise.

This trail was a goody, but not nearly as exhilarating as our Angels Landing experience.

It surprised us there are so many animals roaming around South Dakota. hat are they eating? The Badlands goats do look a little bad ass.  Must be if they can survive this, they can handle anything.

In Custer State Park we even saw wild burros.

Although, not sure how “wild” they are anymore since they practically stuck their heads into people’s cars for a mid-day snack.

Of course these guys were out in full force. We saw several herds and they didn’t hesitate to cause traffic jams while taking over the road. This one was staring us down making sure we knew we were just visitors in his territory.

The nice thing about this park is that it shows a very different side of South Dakota. Sylvan Lake was a welcome reprieve from bone dry and wind eroded landscape of Badlands.

Although you do have to thread the eye of the needle to get there.

Luckily we didn’t do it with the Airstream or we would probably still be wedged in there.

Best thing we did?

A visit to a wild horse sanctuary was something on Gary’s bucket list.  Here we found Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary. It was a bit of a drive from Rapid City (over an hour), but totally worth it to get an up close view of these beautiful horses that they have rescued.

The tour money supports taking care of the horses and those that work with the horses actually give the tours so you can see their connection.  You do stay in the vehicle because they are unpredictable, wild horses.  However, you can totally see how they interact and look out for each other. Here you see two horses who have bonded and buddied up. Our guide explained how they were brought in together and they continue to be a support system for each other.

Even though we didn’t get out of the vehicle, the horses who were brave enough and have built a relationship over time with our guide would come up to the window for a treat. They could only get treats from the front window from the guide, but this guy plastered against our window didn’t seem to get the memo.

Best thing we ate?

TJ’s vanilla ice cream.  This ice cream is based on President Thomas Jefferson’s original recipe. Gary and I have distinct and opposite opinions on ice cream flavors. While Gary loves a good vanilla with a simple peanut butter ribbon or some sliced banana on top, I am a fan of chocolate. The more ooey-gooey and crunchy inclusions the better. However, we both agreed that this vanilla ice cream deserved five stars in flavor. It may have gotten an extra star since it was a hot day and it totally hit the spot, but being able to enjoy it sitting in front of the national memorial is pretty sweet.

What we learned?

Humans need routine. Even nomadic humans need daily rituals. Being able to know you are going to do something every day is comforting. Yes we love exploring and adventure, but in our day to day life we need to do something that gives us a bit of order to avoid chaos.

One of the things we found that works for us is a morning and evening walk. This helps us to bookend our days with a bit of reflection. No matter where we are now, we always try to find a trail or path that allows us to get into a daily groove.

In South Dakota we were lucky enough to be beside a creek with a great walking path. Any sidewalk or dirt path will do, it is just a bonus when we have a babbling brook or stream to walk along.

We now recognize this daily act grounds us and reminds us we on a journey to learn and grow. This journey is a marathon, not a sprint.

Next Stop: Italy

 

 

Will Hike for Tea and Biscuits

Oh Canada, we can’t believe you let us crazies in! We expected more scrutiny from you when crossing the border with our whole house in tow, but it was the most low-key border crossing ever.

However, we may have raised an eyebrow or two with our delay in answering where we are from. Given that we are on the road 24/7 in a different location all the time, our fumble was totally legit. We said Irvine, California by the way, since that is what our driver’s licenses claim. The question just took us by surprise as we forgot the pre-border crossing prep to make sure we had our stories straight.

Not only was the border crossing easy peasy, but we got another bonus when we found out that all Canada National Parks are free this year for Canada’s 150th anniversary. As we crossed into the park system we were rewarded with our 2017 free pass. Score!

Upon arrival into Banff National Park, we were fired up to start exploring and see the turquoise and aquamarine glacial waters. Especially the famous Lake Louise. We wanted to see if it really was as breathtaking as it looked in pictures.  Gotta tell ya, it surpassed our expectations. These pictures do not do it justice. You just have to visit for yourself!

Apparently everyone else also got the memo on the beauty of Lake Louise.  We made sure to get there no later than 9 AM to avoid be shuttled in like cattle, but the hordes of people were still overwhelming. Starting closer 7 AM would have been even better.

Lake Louise wasn’t the only place that awed us. Johnston Canyon was incredible because it kept getting better and better the longer we walked.  It has the look of a slot canyon, but it’s a fairly easy hike that leads to two waterfalls.  One waterfall is interactive, splashing you in the face as you peep at it through hole in the rock.  The other is a bit more dramatic, being that it must be viewed by walking out on a platform that hovers over the water.

Just like Lake Louise though, this hike is full of tourists.  It is actually even worse here because everyone is walking practically single file on one trail so you feel even more stifled.  It can’t be overstated to go out early in the morning.  Some people say the evenings are just as good, but if you know us, staying up late is not our cup of tea, so we can’t vouch for that.

The most spectacular view on this hike was not on the official trail.  Hidden down below the trail was a calm and peaceful cave.  There were only a few people that found it when we did.  So, it was all the more special since it was the one time we felt we had a moment (almost) to ourselves in Banff.

Best thing we did?

Hike to Lake Agnes tea house.

Okay, so maybe the actual hike was a little too brutal to call it the best thing, but making it to the lake and sitting down with our tea and biscuits in front of this view was phenomenal.

This hike starts from Lake Louise.  I mentioned to Gary it was a steep climb, but might have left out exactly how steep.  About half way in we were huffing and puffing and wondering how many tea and biscuits would it take to forget the burning lungs and calves involved in this 400 meter elevation hike.

Then, these guys passed us.

 

Apparently there is a horseback riding tour up to the tea house if you are not into torture for tea.

After about an hour at the top recovering with multiple cups of tea, I think Gary found his Zen and forgave me for dragging him on this one.

Best thing we ate?

The afternoon of our arrival we wanted to check out the town of Banff and have a bite to eat.  We stopped at Park Distillery and our favorite app was their spin on Caprese.  Heirloom tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil vinaigrette, rye crumbs and spruce tips.  Spruce tips?  We have seen spruce tips at farmer’s markets, but never had them in a dish.

The flavor set the tone for being in a Canadian National Park for the week.  Simple, natural and a fresh aroma like walking outdoors amongst the trees.

The only downer was that much like Banff National Park, downtown Banff and its restaurants were too crowded.  After eating we didn’t want to be there a second longer.  We suggest hitting up the town of Canmore instead as it is much less of a mob scene.

What we learned?

Sometimes you need to take the easy way, sometimes the hard way and sometimes you split the difference.

We have found in life there are moments where you need to take the more difficult path to learn and grown, then there are those where you just need to give yourself a break.  After our Lake Agnes hike, we allowed ourselves to push the easy button on this hike to Grassi Lakes.

Normally we would have pushed ourselves to take the more difficult route just because we don’t like to pass up a challenge.  Our calves were still screaming at us, so we needed to take it easy this time.  Either way, the prize at the end was just as sweet.

Plus, taking the easy way up gave us the rest we needed to tackle the more difficult path on the way down.  Everyone knows, downhill is always easier!

Next Stop: South Dakota

A No-Go on Going to the Sun in Glacier National Park

We have good news and bad news for you about our time in Glacier National Park. The bad news, we got shut out of a lot of the best things about the park. Which leads to the good news. We must go back!

While the park was beautiful, our timing was not. First, Avalanche Lake trail was closed due to bear activity spurred on by some crazy human activity. Worse, bucket list drive (aka scare the pants off you drive) Going-to-the-Sun Road was not yet open for the season due to snow! Yes, we are STILL behind as this was at the end of June. Keeping up with blog posts when you are having too much fun doing the things you are writing about…the struggle is real.

We gave ourselves a few minutes to cry into our aptly named beer and mourn the loss of what might have been.

Then, like the can do people we are, #TeamTary focused on all the things we could do. Our launching off point was the best campground we have stayed in to date (as well as the most expensive being double what we typically pay).

West Glacier KOA

From there we headed the three miles into the park and straight to Lake McDonald and its multi-hued rocks.

Toes in the crystal clear water required! Here it is ankle deep, but practically invisible.

Everyone said we must make the effort to visit east Glacier. With the Going-to-the-Sun road closure, we decided it was still worth it to make the 2+ hour drive through vast nothingness all the way around the outside of the park. The view of St. Mary Lake convinced us we made the right decision. Although, not so sure we were saying that on the drive back!  Usually five hour drive days involve parking the Airstream in an entirely new state!

Best thing we did?

During the day trip going around our elbow to get to the east side of Glacier, we decided to take on a waterfall hike. In order to get the most bang for our buck, we picked St. Mary Lake Trail. A two for one deal.

If you have been keeping up with us on this journey, you know haven’t met a waterfall we didn’t love. Nor one we haven’t take a shameless selfie in front of for that matter. However, St. Mary Falls with its creamy turquoise water has earned a top spot on our hike-worthy waterfall list.

The bonus waterfall in the BOGO deal, Virginia Falls, wasn’t too shabby either.

It was the perfect stop to cool down on the hike.

One perplexing thing for us in Glacier, compared to other national parks, was that we didn’t see many animals. We assumed this is because we couldn’t explore much with the closures. So, when this sweet thing showed up on the trail, we couldn’t help but gawk for a bit. Maybe it was animal sighting withdrawal after being bombarded by bison in Yellowstone and Grand Teton!

Best thing we ate?

A gargantuan huckleberry bear claw with a view.

We love getting great tips on things to do that are a little off the beaten path.  We were told about a tranquil lake in Polebridge which is in the northwest corner of Glacier, nearly at the Canadian border.

Our tipster made sure to tell us to stop first at Polebridge Mercantile to pick up a huckleberry bear claw. In Montana, you can get huckleberries in anything.  From ice cream to BBQ, no huckleberry is left behind.

An hour and a gravel road later, we made it to The Merc.  It is a country style store that is completely off grid with a bakery that runs on solar power.  We handed over five bucks for a bear claw as big as our heads and headed off with high hopes in the direction of our destination, Lake Bowman. The sign said six miles.

Well, six miles turned into 20 or 30 minutes of back country dirt road, one lane driving. We were really starting to doubt our crazy tipster half way in, but we figured we were already in deep at this point, so we could suck it up for a few more miles.  We were rewarded ten-fold after our arduous journey with this incredible view.

Our breakfast treat tasted 100 times sweeter as we sat in silence and enjoyed the serenity.

What we learned?

We don’t want the exploring to end.  The more we see on our journey, the more we realize how much there is to see.  In fact, it was at this Glacier visit that we decided we want to expand our forever home research to add international flair.  Italy is officially on the list!  We will spend three months there this year to scope it out.

We also learned that the best National Parks can’t be done in one visit.  They aren’t meant to be.  It isn’t just about seeing the sights and checking them off your list, but in order to really explore and immerse yourself, you have to go back again and again.  Timing is everything.  Going in different times of year will allow exploration of different things.

Glacier, we will be back.

Next Stop: O Canada